Comments on: 8×16 Free House Plans Coming Along Nicely http://www.tinyhousedesign.com/2009/03/27/8%c3%9716-free-house-plans-coming-along-nicely/ more attainable & sustainable Sat, 11 Feb 2012 16:19:53 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.1 By: buy shed plans http://www.tinyhousedesign.com/2009/03/27/8%c3%9716-free-house-plans-coming-along-nicely/comment-page-1/#comment-9430 buy shed plans Thu, 02 Dec 2010 02:50:59 +0000 http://www.tinyhousedesign.com/?p=1386#comment-9430 Great advice...thanks for the ideas. Keep them coming :) Great advice…thanks for the ideas. Keep them coming :)

]]> By: beckyblanton » Blog Archive » How RV Parks Fight Homelessness http://www.tinyhousedesign.com/2009/03/27/8%c3%9716-free-house-plans-coming-along-nicely/comment-page-1/#comment-3123 beckyblanton » Blog Archive » How RV Parks Fight Homelessness Thu, 22 Oct 2009 16:22:54 +0000 http://www.tinyhousedesign.com/?p=1386#comment-3123 [...] people can live in 200 or even 100 square foot homes. Don’t believe me? Look here, here and here!! Or Google/Bing “Tiny house designs” and see – there are dozens of people making [...] [...] people can live in 200 or even 100 square foot homes. Don’t believe me? Look here, here and here!! Or Google/Bing “Tiny house designs” and see – there are dozens of people making [...]

]]> By: reddwarf2956 http://www.tinyhousedesign.com/2009/03/27/8%c3%9716-free-house-plans-coming-along-nicely/comment-page-1/#comment-1987 reddwarf2956 Sat, 13 Jun 2009 05:55:17 +0000 http://www.tinyhousedesign.com/?p=1386#comment-1987 Michael, I found and down loaded the pdf file and printed it. I do see a error with the wheel well, WW. The two floor plans match, but the "Floor Framing" on page 4 does not match in location for the WW. I think you mixed up the left and right sides with the transform to the floor, or you thought of swapping sides with front and back, which might be better. The door porch can be supported by the hitch. You also do not show the hitch and trailer which is making it hard to figure out where stuff is at. I might be building the trailer, but I would still like to have some set placement of the wheels as for balance. Do we need the tandem wheels? If you fix that problem, then can make the changes like the following? The front as to have a 3' to 4' by extending the roof as to make an overhang with the door on the lower side of the front you might make it look bigger by extending the roof up to the peak. By doing so, you will have to do some flipping of placements of everything left to right and get an added benefit. When you place the all-in-one kitchen in, it will have the water of the sink closer to the bathroom (shorter lines, less hot water loss. If the hot water is solar, where would the storage tank go? And, if it is PV powered and off grid, where will the batteries go? The batteries should not be next to the hot water tank for many reasons including fire and shock hazard. Michael,

I found and down loaded the pdf file and printed it. I do see a error with the wheel well, WW. The two floor plans match, but the “Floor Framing” on page 4 does not match in location for the WW. I think you mixed up the left and right sides with the transform to the floor, or you thought of swapping sides with front and back, which might be better. The door porch can be supported by the hitch. You also do not show the hitch and trailer which is making it hard to figure out where stuff is at. I might be building the trailer, but I would still like to have some set placement of the wheels as for balance. Do we need the tandem wheels?

If you fix that problem, then can make the changes like the following?

The front as to have a 3′ to 4′ by extending the roof as to make an overhang with the door on the lower side of the front you might make it look bigger by extending the roof up to the peak. By doing so, you will have to do some flipping of placements of everything left to right and get an added benefit. When you place the all-in-one kitchen in, it will have the water of the sink closer to the bathroom (shorter lines, less hot water loss.

If the hot water is solar, where would the storage tank go? And, if it is PV powered and off grid, where will the batteries go? The batteries should not be next to the hot water tank for many reasons including fire and shock hazard.

]]> By: John http://www.tinyhousedesign.com/2009/03/27/8%c3%9716-free-house-plans-coming-along-nicely/comment-page-1/#comment-1950 John Wed, 10 Jun 2009 04:49:30 +0000 http://www.tinyhousedesign.com/?p=1386#comment-1950 A friend of mine has built a tiny house for having near his work. He has got me looking for a place to live. I have decided on a floor plan near what you have drawn. However, I can see some changes are needed. For example, in the loft, there is not a window to look out of, so I am thinking of moving the one top one (32x23) near the doorway to a location with the loft. The lower one would be place on the kitchen side as a horizontal window instead of vertical. Reduce one of the remaining windows. Yes, this would reduce the passive solar heating, but I live in North TX and am more worried about the summer heat. Also, I am looking for the build to be a zero energy home. I plan on the roof to be covered with solar PV and with SHW panels. Will SIP panels be able to handle roads, winds, and panels weight? What is the R value of the walls with and without SIP panels? For winter, the SHW panels could heat an radiant floor if done right. I also do not like the in cropped front door. Straight flat wall instead. I would also add a desk on top of the wheel well. I am think of having a right angle saltbox top also, about a foot or two from the current top and making sure the long side has a 30 to 35 degree slope from the horizontal. But another idea comes from my friends place he is thinking of having skylight at the gable of his house going across the complete top. Can the walls be made in a modular fashion like the ones at www.minicabinplans.com as to add or reduce the items like windows and doors? I have not see the pdf, are you finish with the plans? I have lots of time because I am just starting to save the money needed. A friend of mine has built a tiny house for having near his work. He has got me looking for a place to live.

I have decided on a floor plan near what you have drawn. However, I can see some changes are needed. For example, in the loft, there is not a window to look out of, so I am thinking of moving the one top one (32×23) near the doorway to a location with the loft. The lower one would be place on the kitchen side as a horizontal window instead of vertical. Reduce one of the remaining windows. Yes, this would reduce the passive solar heating, but I live in North TX and am more worried about the summer heat.

Also, I am looking for the build to be a zero energy home. I plan on the roof to be covered with solar PV and with SHW panels. Will SIP panels be able to handle roads, winds, and panels weight? What is the R value of the walls with and without SIP panels? For winter, the SHW panels could heat an radiant floor if done right.

I also do not like the in cropped front door. Straight flat wall instead. I would also add a desk on top of the wheel well.

I am think of having a right angle saltbox top also, about a foot or two from the current top and making sure the long side has a 30 to 35 degree slope from the horizontal. But another idea comes from my friends place he is thinking of having skylight at the gable of his house going across the complete top.

Can the walls be made in a modular fashion like the ones at http://www.minicabinplans.com as to add or reduce the items like windows and doors?

I have not see the pdf, are you finish with the plans? I have lots of time because I am just starting to save the money needed.

]]> By: gus http://www.tinyhousedesign.com/2009/03/27/8%c3%9716-free-house-plans-coming-along-nicely/comment-page-1/#comment-1736 gus Sat, 16 May 2009 04:04:09 +0000 http://www.tinyhousedesign.com/?p=1386#comment-1736 Kieren, take a second and third look at your furniture for "bookshelf" space. A common chair with a stretcher between the legs becomes a shelf with the addition of an quickly (craftily?) made "L" atop it. Same with table legs spans and don't forget any footrests and fronts of benches and beds at foot level. If you put in a short loft "wall" to avoid stuff falling on a guest's head, make the wall into a partitioned bookshelf. It is your space, have bunches of fun with it. gus Kieren, take a second and third look at your furniture for “bookshelf” space. A common chair with a stretcher between the legs becomes a shelf with the addition of an quickly (craftily?) made “L” atop it. Same with table legs spans and don’t forget any footrests and fronts of benches and beds at foot level. If you put in a short loft “wall” to avoid stuff falling on a guest’s head, make the wall into a partitioned bookshelf. It is your space, have bunches of fun with it. gus

]]> By: gus http://www.tinyhousedesign.com/2009/03/27/8%c3%9716-free-house-plans-coming-along-nicely/comment-page-1/#comment-1735 gus Sat, 16 May 2009 03:55:57 +0000 http://www.tinyhousedesign.com/?p=1386#comment-1735 ref Frank Dewith's comment...before buying or building your cabinets, actually stand in front of your bathroom and kitchen sinks for a minute and move your hands and arms in cooking and washing mode. How's your back and shoulders? If you're 4'13" and have to reach up or 6'6" and arereaching down, stretched or stooped over, consider changing your "standard" 36" cab/c-top hgt to a more comfortable level. Also, that 3"-4" toe space set back under a commercial (read that 'standard') cabinet is usually dead space in a tiny home. Put in a drawer, even a shallow, reduced depth-of-pull drawer is add'l valuable space. Countless thanks for providing the plans. gus ref Frank Dewith’s comment…before buying or building your cabinets, actually stand in front of your bathroom and kitchen sinks for a minute and move your hands and arms in cooking and washing mode. How’s your back and shoulders? If you’re 4’13″ and have to reach up or 6’6″ and arereaching down, stretched or stooped over, consider changing your “standard” 36″ cab/c-top hgt to a more comfortable level. Also, that 3″-4″ toe space set back under a commercial (read that ‘standard’) cabinet is usually dead space in a tiny home. Put in a drawer, even a shallow, reduced depth-of-pull drawer is add’l valuable space. Countless thanks for providing the plans. gus

]]> By: Bob Sackett http://www.tinyhousedesign.com/2009/03/27/8%c3%9716-free-house-plans-coming-along-nicely/comment-page-1/#comment-1500 Bob Sackett Sat, 11 Apr 2009 03:38:37 +0000 http://www.tinyhousedesign.com/?p=1386#comment-1500 I have built many sheds and other buildings. One trick that I have used is 3/8" ext siding, 2 x 2 studs, 3/8" plywood inside and insulate with 1 1/2" styrofoam. With the plywood on both sides you have a fantastic structure. The old old mobile homes were built this way. (exept they used 1/4" inside. Which if you use make sure it is ply not particle board) Bob I have built many sheds and other buildings. One trick that I have used is 3/8″ ext siding, 2 x 2 studs, 3/8″ plywood inside and insulate with 1 1/2″ styrofoam. With the plywood on both sides you have a fantastic structure. The old old mobile homes were built this way. (exept they used 1/4″ inside. Which if you use make sure it is ply not particle board)

Bob

]]> By: Michael Janzen http://www.tinyhousedesign.com/2009/03/27/8%c3%9716-free-house-plans-coming-along-nicely/comment-page-1/#comment-1496 Michael Janzen Fri, 10 Apr 2009 18:11:15 +0000 http://www.tinyhousedesign.com/?p=1386#comment-1496 THANK YOU BOB! I really appreciate the professional input. Over the weekend I was going to do a pass over all the plans and try to clean them up and add a little more detail. Your input is coming at a great time. If you notice anything else the plans needs I'd really appreciate any advice. That goes for ANY pro builder... or expert DIY'r. Thanks in advance! THANK YOU BOB!

I really appreciate the professional input. Over the weekend I was going to do a pass over all the plans and try to clean them up and add a little more detail. Your input is coming at a great time. If you notice anything else the plans needs I’d really appreciate any advice.

That goes for ANY pro builder… or expert DIY’r. Thanks in advance!

]]> By: Bob Sackett http://www.tinyhousedesign.com/2009/03/27/8%c3%9716-free-house-plans-coming-along-nicely/comment-page-1/#comment-1495 Bob Sackett Fri, 10 Apr 2009 18:01:04 +0000 http://www.tinyhousedesign.com/?p=1386#comment-1495 Looking at it more. You can take all blocking out of the floor and walls. The plywood acts fantastic as shear walls and on the floor. Nails at 6" on center. The roof only need to be 24" o.c., the plywood will give all the support it needs. Must use clips in between the rafters though. Bob Looking at it more. You can take all blocking out of the floor and walls. The plywood acts fantastic as shear walls and on the floor. Nails at 6″ on center. The roof only need to be 24″ o.c., the plywood will give all the support it needs. Must use clips in between the rafters though.

Bob

]]> By: Bob Sackett http://www.tinyhousedesign.com/2009/03/27/8%c3%9716-free-house-plans-coming-along-nicely/comment-page-1/#comment-1494 Bob Sackett Fri, 10 Apr 2009 17:54:15 +0000 http://www.tinyhousedesign.com/?p=1386#comment-1494 As a remodeler, builder with many years I would suggest that you change the 5/8 floor plywood to 3/4 t&g plywood. The 3/4 is made just for that and has more structural built in. Bob Sackett As a remodeler, builder with many years I would suggest that you change the 5/8 floor plywood to 3/4 t&g plywood. The 3/4 is made just for that and has more structural built in.

Bob Sackett

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