Prospector’s Cabin v.2
12×12
Loft
Front & Back Porch
8/12 & 12/12 Roof Pitch
PDF format – 47 pages – $9.95
These framing plans contain the measured drawings for a tiny cabin. The base structure is 12′ by 12′ and two roof pitches are included in the plans.
The walls are 10-feet tall and balloon framed, meaning that they are built in one piece to make construction easier. The gables are framed separately. The roof uses standard framing and plans for both an 8/12 and 12/12 pitch roof are included. The porch roof pitch is 3/12.
Sample Pages & Illustrations
Free Updates
Today the plans are complete but over time I’ll make improvements and additions as reader suggestions are incorporated. When I do I’ll send out a link to the free update to everyone who has already purchased the ebook in the past. So in many ways purchasing an ebook from me is really more like subscribing to an expanding design resource.
Please Note
Before building any structure be sure to check with your local authorities. In many communities permits are not needed when building tiny buildings like sheds but the rules range widely so it’s best to research your local restrictions before building anything. Also please note that these plans were not prepared by or checked by a licensed engineer and/or architect. Build from these plans at your own risk.
Affiliate program
If you’re interested in selling this ebook on your website you can earn a 40% affiliate commission for each sale. Learn more about the Tiny House Design Affiliate Program.
Does the 8/12 roof pitch option decrease the height of the gable ends or increase the height of the non-gable ends?
The walls are the same for either roof, so the overall height of the 8/12 is shorter than the 12/12. The walls are 10-feet tall. The overhang of the eaves is essentially the same for both designs.
Does that answer the question?
Yes, it does. Thank you
I’m interested in these plans. I tried clicking on buy now but nothing happened. I’ll go to the library and see if their computers will let me connect to order the plans.
How difficult would it be to add a continous wrap around porch vice the seperate front & back porch?
Not too hard… the tricky part is the framing the corners. I think I might draw that as an option into the next version. Great suggestion!
Looking for a winter cabin for Northern Wisconsin (Spooner), a few questions:
Any wiring for lights/heater and any bathroom/sink/kitchen stations…Tks Chappy
I’ve not added that level of detail to the plans.
Why not have a gambrel roof and come off the first point after the roof’s peak to make your porch roof? Granted, you would need longer boards to span the distance and more lumber or roofing material to cover those boards but you should have more warmth in the winter and be cooler in the winter because of the dead air space. You would also increase your usable room on the second floor with the gambrel roof line opposed to the gabled roof.
I am looking for something small enough but large enough to use as a tiny rental or guest house on my property. I need to know approximate material costs for california, if possible.
which design wouold you recomend?
look for book help to build one of this help thank you get email find face book
WTF?
I love your plans. I’m going off-grid and have looked through myriads of plans from garden and ranch sheds to pre-fabs. Your ideas reach all of my goals (loft, under 200 sf, options).
Thank you, Michael. Keep up the great work!
I REALLY like this building plan!
A small woodstove would keep this toasty warm in the winter. This is going in my file of “Vacation home ideas” in the top spot.
You could, actually build and outdoors boiler and run tubing through the walls, floor and ceiling, for the hot water to circulate. You build a fire in the boiler, build up a good bed of coals and if the air flow is set right, the fire will burn slowly, eliminating several trips to add wood, coal or whatever materials you use for a fire. I made such a system in my workshop and it warms the shop too well, at times and I have to open a door or adjust the water flow. I failed to mention that the tubing runs through vents, with a fan circulating air over the tubes and in to the building. It sure reduces the dangers of fire and gas poisoning! It’s easy to design and build such a system and it’s cheap to operate – just a little electricity to run the fan! Oh, you can add a humidifier, to avoid dry air! Just an experience I thought I would share! Some of you probably thinks it’s crazy; however, it works great!
We did something simular and we used pex so there was one continous line with no joints. Don’t forget the glycol to prevent freezing.
What’s the chances of being able to purchase a materials list, soon – like real soon?
Thanks,
John Curtis
Ocala, FL
I’m planning on including the materials list in the next version. Look for it soon.
Will I be able to access it with the link I was provided, upon purchase?
Thanks
Don’t know what I was thinking! I am starting on it this week, so, I will do a take-off myself. I will; however, purchase your materials list, when you put it out, just to have it with the plans. Would you like for me to send you my materials list, once finished, this week. It should be pretty thorough and it may save you some time.
On page 19, of the plans, there appears to be an error in the measurements! The distance between the rafters and the overall length of the roof appear to be wrong. Can you email me the correct measurements or let me know if I am just reading it wrong. Also, do you know the angle of the rafters, where they meet the ridge board, that joins the rafters, at the top and the angles for the Bird’s Mouths, at the other end of the rafters?
Thanks
I’ll fix that – thanks for catching it. Not sure what the correct measurement is until I fix it. The rafters are 24 inches on center though… it that helps.
OK! I can figure it out. Thanks! I am going to start on it later this week. I have a few mods planned, to make it work out better, for my needs. I am going with the A-Frame roof and the loft will be changed to a 2nd floor, with and access door. I plan to use the upper level for storage. The lower level will be a kitchen. The building is going next to my pool, so, one of the porches will overlook the pool and the other, 180 degrees, at my pond. I will be able to catch some fish and fry them right there in my new kitchen! I am going to stucco the exterior, to match my house. Cant wait to get started on it. It’s been a while since I built something from the ground, up and I really enjoy it. Now that I’m retired, I can knock it out in less than a week!
I will send pictures when I am finished!
Thanks, again!
John R. Curtis
Ocala, FL
On page 6, for example, should the 2×4, notched in to the studs to support the loft joists, span the entire wall, instead of just one side, where the loft is? If not, there will be no support for the OSB sheathing, at the seams, where 2 pieces meet? Or, am I missing something? I’m no builder, so, please excuse any ignorant comment or question!
Thanks, again!
John take a look at this image: http://www.tinyhousedesign.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Prospectors-Cabin-12×12-loft-detail.png
I think it might answer the question – but in some cases/places the sheathing may need clips between panels per code.
I’m going to go ahead and run a 2 x 4 all the way across, at the joints. I don’t like to use those clips in walls – they work ok on the roof; however, since I am putting stucco on it, I don’t want to risk a weak joint, where the stucco could crack.
Thanks,
John R. Curtis
Ocala, FL
i like to no is the prise right is it $9.95 for a child to play in.
These plans are a PDF download for a tiny house, not a child’s playhouse – although I could see someone with a big budget choosing to build one for a teenager etc. The price for the download is $9.95.
Michael,
Did you see my questions?
I missed them. I think I just answered them. Let me know if I missed something.
What is included in terms of interior layout options? I know it is a challenge to fit all the necessities in a cabin this size…